Saturday, June 5, 2010

Bergstrom and de Lancellotti

Just up the hill from Adelsheim are Bergstrom and de Lancellotti. Bergstrom's tasting room is open daily, and sometimes shows some de Lancellotti wines as well. So, Kenall Bergstrom is married to Paul de Lancellotti, and the two labels share a winery. De Lancellotti was only begun as a separate label a few years ago, when Paul wanted to branch off and make his own wines. Still, the two labels are very similar in style, quality, and price. It's also worth noting the the Bergstrom-de Lancellotti clan are among the owners of the Inn at Red Hills and the attached restaurant, Farm to Fork, and were instrumental in the development of that project.

So, on a warm afternoon, still riding the buzz of our awesome experience at Adelsheim, my friend and I continued up the hill to the Bergstrom tasting room. The tasting room itself is small, with lovely views looking south and east over their vines, and up the hill on the opposite side of the main road below. Being a weekday, the tasting room was empty except for the girls working there. It was about an hour before they closed, but I still got the vibe that they were annoyed at us arriving so late. They were perfectly cordial to us, but I just didn't get the feeling that they really wanted us to taste their wines. Even dropping my industry card, and attempting conversation with them about the vintages and terroir didn't help.

I'd seen Bergstrom's label around, but probably hadn't tasted their wines in three years. A week before this, I was at the industry tasting of the Indie Wine Festival, and a friend told me I had to check out de Lancellotti. I was impressed. The wines are fairly indicative of the Chehalem Mountains AVA, I think. They're delicate in fruit, but still structured and tannic, providing some body and character. Paul himself was there, and was incredibly charming, relaxed, and knowledgeable. We spoke about de Lancellotti and Bergstrom, so I made a point of stopping by.

The wines at Bergstrom were great. Overall a slightly larger style of pinot than de Lancellotti, with a nice smokiness that's well-integrated with the fruit. Complex and subtle, these wines are some I would like to drink over several hours to see how they developed, and learn more about them. I think the structure will allow them to be cellared for up to ten years, too. This holds true for de Lancellotti as well.

So, as much as I like the wines, I just didn't have a great experience at their tasting room. I felt like I was keeping the women there from doing something more important. Plus, while their wines and labels are lovely, I can find things as good at a slightly cheaper price point, and with less attitude from the people selling it to me. Unfortunately overall I was left with mixed feelings about their product. The vibe at the tasting room is linked with the flavor of their wines for me now. Sad.
Monday, May 17, 2010

Adelsheim Vineyard

A winery that's been a long time favourite of mine, Adelsheim is located in the Chehalem Mountain AVA, just off the 240 hwy, between Newberg and Yamhill. The first time I visited their tasting room at their estate vineyards was in January of this year, and my second trip back this May was as enjoyable as the first.

Their new tasting room facility is about a year old, and is lovely. New and modern without being pretentious, the facility is at the South end of their property, looking up the hill at their vineyards. Cindy in their tasting room helped me out my first time there, and remembered me when I was back this May. She is sweet and, again, unpretentious, while still being knowledgeable and passionate about Adelsheim's wines.

Adelsheim is one of the older wineries in Oregon, and was started in 1971. The wines are light and delicate, while still having enough structure to be cellared for up to ten years, in my opinion. The labels show pictures of different women important to the Adelsheim family, from other winemakers to family friends. Their Calkins Lane Estate Pinot Noir is a favourite of mine. It showcases the AVA well, while still being delicate enough to be identifiable as Adelsheim. Their Elizabeth's Reserve Chardonnay is beautiful as well. It has enough body and richness to be obvious as new-world Chardonnay, while showcasing the fruit and region well.

All in all, this tasting room is well worth the trip: convenient location, lovely, knowledgeable and welcoming staff, and amazing wines!

Oregon Wine Country

I spent a few days last week in the Willamette Valley for my birthday and a mini-vacation. As usual, I ended up working: learning a lot about the '07 and '08 vintages, more about the different sub-AVA's, tasting and drinking a lot.

In the next few days I'll be posting my thoughts on the different wineries I visited. And not just their wines, but also their locations, tasting rooms, and overall atmospheres.

To start us off, though, I thought I'd write a bit about my thoughts on tasting rooms/winery visits. It is shocking how much my view of a wine/winery changes given the demeanor of the person serving it. Moreover, I am much more likely to buy a few bottles at a winery if I feel that the person working there actually values their product, and has enjoyed chatting with me about it. It's bizarre: I went to a couple wineries whose wines I love, but got a rude vibe from the people working there, and now I have that feeling associated with their product (no names here, but check out the individual posts below). I'm not saying you have to smother every customer with attention, I know you may be busy, and some customers (including myself) hate that. But I think you can be happy to see someone walk through your door. And I know it's impossible to do that all the time: we all have bad/off days. But, seriously, if I walk in at 4:45pm and you close at 5, at least be okay with the fact that you have someone to keep you company for the last 15 minutes. And, you might even make one last sale of the day.
Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Elsa

Formerly The Hanger and The Hanger Bar, the small East Village joint Elsa used to house a custom suit shop. And a bar. Simultaneously. Racks of suits now gone, the small front area still contains a display case of vintage clothes, all of which are for sale.

I wandered in early on a windy, cold, Monday evening, but was still surprised to find only one other table occupied. I was immediately greeted warmly, and, with no stools at the bar, I was invited to grab any table. I walked past the light-wood, candled bar which stood opposite a few small booths to an area of long booths and small, round marble tables, and nestled myself into a corner.

White walls and funky mirror somehow give the place an inviting feel--like your grandmother's front porch. The light wood and candles make everything seem welcoming and intimate, even when the weather outside is chilly.

After sitting down, I was promptly handed a cocktail list, and the lovely waitress answered my questions about their house cocktails knowledgeably. I chose the Wild Kindness, made with Creme de Violette, gin, orange blossom water and dry vermouth. It arrived in a martini glass, dantily garnished with a little flower bud. Very sweet and delicate, just like the drink. The drink was well-balanced and nicely strong, with the dryness of the gin cutting the sweetness of the Creme de Violette nicely.

If you're in the area and looking for a good drink with a friend, and want to avoid the more hyped-up places, check it out. Or go later in the evening, or on weekends when the place is more crowded. Definitely down-to-earth, this place is fun, welcoming, and relaxed.

Visit date: 3/15/10
Thursday, February 11, 2010

Little Branch

If I were an organ harvester, this is exactly how my lair would look. In fact, as my date led me through an unmarked door and down some rickety steps into a dingy basement, I was slightly worried that I would wake up missing a kidney. But after being greeted by the cool hostess and glancing at the liquor selection behind the bar, I was reassured. The hostess informed us she didn't have a table free, and invited us to hang out at the bar.

The bookish-sexy asian gal behind the bartend (who, with her glasses, looked more like a lab rat than a server) asked us what we were in the mood for. When we asked about whiskey drinks, she rattled off a few things from the 1800's, proving her mixology prowess. I knew we were in good hands. Cocktails were complex and yummy, using ingredients even I don't know. They were made carefully and efficiently, and were not too esoteric to keep me from sipping them.

After getting our drinks, we looked for a couple bar stools, and found two free by the empty band area. It turned out the band was on a break, and when we heard their soul-jazzy tunes, we knew we had found the best seats in the house.

The vibe of the place is down-to-earth, and, with the lack of decor, you know everyone is there for the drinks, not the scene. It's definitely a place for great cocktails, but be sure to bring your own company. The small booths along the wall will be taken by couples, as will the few barstools, and the bartenders are way too busy to chat for long.

And, it's a good way to freak someone out if they don't know what they're in for!

Visit date: January, 2010
Friday, January 29, 2010

Employees Only

I got off the subway at Sheridan Square, and headed over to Hudson St. to find Employees Only. It was about midnight on a Thursday, and the street was just starting to empty of the Greenwich Village crowd. A black awning with a red neon "Psychic" sign in the window marked the entrance to Employees Only. A tiny entry way, with a bouncer and psychic both hard at work led through dark curtains to a dimly lit long thin bar. Unlike the street outside, the place was packed. I waded my way through the rich college girls and boys to find my date perched at the bar.

Although slammed, the bartenders greeted us with cocktail menus promptly, and came back to take our order shortly after taking care of some sorority girls next to us. A well-mustached bartender answered my questions intelligently, and I ordered the Provencale, which consisted of lavender-infused gin, Herbs de Provence-infused vermouth, and a touch of Cointreau. An empty martini glass was set before me, and the bartender gracefully poured my cocktail, and topped it with a few small dried flower buds. The drink was light, with a fresh slightly lemon complexity. The delicate nature of the drink kept me sipping it, while keeping me from guzzling. The lavender and herbs added a nice nose, too. Well done.

A few minutes later, a couple girls randomly asked me for a cocktail recommendation when they came up to the bar to order. I gave a couple suggestions based on what I saw on the menu, and then left them to the bartender. The room was a mix of couples, groups of men and women, and people there for the actual cocktails. After hearing the phrase "I just love the Village" more than once, I was frustrated with the ignorance of the crowd, and imagined these smart, talented bartenders must be as well.

Yet they weren't, and handled the myriad of patrons gracefully, tailoring their approach to each customer. Overhearing some drink recommendations to a group of guys, it became clear to me that these bartenders knew their crowd well. Upon conversing with me, my bartender changed his tone, and spoke to me specifically and personally about the cocktails, and made me another delicious beverage. He made me feel as if my date and I were the only customers in the place, although from the volume in the room I knew otherwise.

The cocktails here are unique and complex, and use a mix of both house infusions and classic liqueurs, showing the knowledge of the mixologists and staff. Despite the young crowd, my date and I stayed for four rounds. My advice: bring good company, find a corner table, and enjoy the elegance of the staff and drinks, not the crowd.

Visit date: Thursday, January 21st, 2010

Death and Company

On a dark East Village street, behind dark wood doors with dark metal signs lurks Death & Co. A lone doorman (who looks more like a drug dealer than a host) loiters outside with a notebook and pen. With no windows or awning the building looks almost condemned. As I approach the door to read the sign, the man asks, "How many?" "Oh, it's just me," I reply. "I have one seat at the bar right now," he replies, checks my ID, and motions me in.

Thick black curtains separate patrons from the January wind and I am plunged into a world of black and white marble, dark wood, and candlelight. I grab the one empty seat at the bar (yes, the doorman knew the room that well!) and am promptly greeted by a tall, smartly dressed bartender.

It was a busy Saturday night, which fortunately gave me time to peruse their six page cocktail list, which is organized by base ingredient. While making four drinks, my bartender unnecessarily apologized for the wait, and steered me in the direction of a cocktail, the Frisco Club, with gin, Fernet Branca, grapefruit and lime. The cocktail arrived in a small martini glass, which was more than ample considering its potency. After informing the bartender that I liked weird liqueurs and new takes on things, this cocktail was an excellent choice. At first it seemed simple, but the Fernet gave it this smokey complexity and an incredibly long, bitter, finish. The more I tasted it, the more flavors appeared, and complemented each other. Like Fernet, I started off sipping the cocktail slowly, but soon guzzled it. Perfect.

Fear not growing hungry as you imbibe, though. Their food menu, though small, is delicious, and portions are surprisingly large for the price. I ordered the asparagus and proscuitto with mushroom sauce, which was a yummy addition to this classic. Food arrived piping hot and was more than enough to satisfy.

The experience was warm and enjoyable in a place that could ostensibly be anything but. Giving the bartender free reign over my next cocktail, and after a few more questions on what I liked, he was again on point. Down-to-earth staff and quirky music (everything from Lowrider to the Mambo) confirm this joint's tongue-in-cheek attitude.

Go for the cocktails, trust your server if you can't decide, and be sure to have a bite to eat to get you through another round.

Visit date: January 23rd, 2010

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Restaurant and bar reviews around the country from a woman who eats and drinks like one. And has strong opinions.

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