Friday, January 29, 2010

Employees Only

I got off the subway at Sheridan Square, and headed over to Hudson St. to find Employees Only. It was about midnight on a Thursday, and the street was just starting to empty of the Greenwich Village crowd. A black awning with a red neon "Psychic" sign in the window marked the entrance to Employees Only. A tiny entry way, with a bouncer and psychic both hard at work led through dark curtains to a dimly lit long thin bar. Unlike the street outside, the place was packed. I waded my way through the rich college girls and boys to find my date perched at the bar.

Although slammed, the bartenders greeted us with cocktail menus promptly, and came back to take our order shortly after taking care of some sorority girls next to us. A well-mustached bartender answered my questions intelligently, and I ordered the Provencale, which consisted of lavender-infused gin, Herbs de Provence-infused vermouth, and a touch of Cointreau. An empty martini glass was set before me, and the bartender gracefully poured my cocktail, and topped it with a few small dried flower buds. The drink was light, with a fresh slightly lemon complexity. The delicate nature of the drink kept me sipping it, while keeping me from guzzling. The lavender and herbs added a nice nose, too. Well done.

A few minutes later, a couple girls randomly asked me for a cocktail recommendation when they came up to the bar to order. I gave a couple suggestions based on what I saw on the menu, and then left them to the bartender. The room was a mix of couples, groups of men and women, and people there for the actual cocktails. After hearing the phrase "I just love the Village" more than once, I was frustrated with the ignorance of the crowd, and imagined these smart, talented bartenders must be as well.

Yet they weren't, and handled the myriad of patrons gracefully, tailoring their approach to each customer. Overhearing some drink recommendations to a group of guys, it became clear to me that these bartenders knew their crowd well. Upon conversing with me, my bartender changed his tone, and spoke to me specifically and personally about the cocktails, and made me another delicious beverage. He made me feel as if my date and I were the only customers in the place, although from the volume in the room I knew otherwise.

The cocktails here are unique and complex, and use a mix of both house infusions and classic liqueurs, showing the knowledge of the mixologists and staff. Despite the young crowd, my date and I stayed for four rounds. My advice: bring good company, find a corner table, and enjoy the elegance of the staff and drinks, not the crowd.

Visit date: Thursday, January 21st, 2010

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Restaurant and bar reviews around the country from a woman who eats and drinks like one. And has strong opinions.
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